Mounting Instructions
1. Switch drive rod
2. M12 screw for ISIS cranks
3. Switch botton
Spoke lacing
The FlickFlock can be used as a normal ISIS hub with 36 spokes.
Since the outer shell and the flanges are made of AL7075-Ergal aluminum, the risk of damaging the flanges with overuse or incorrect assembly is higher than with hubs with steel flanges.
For long-lasting use and to ensure greater stability, it is required to lace the wheel 4-cross.
4-cross mounting requires slightly longer spokes (please consult the various spoke length calculators available online) and features the same difficulty as a 3-cross lacing.
3-cross mounting is preferred by manufacturers who build wheels using special machinery because this process is faster and cheaper.
If you lace them by hand, difficulty and time are almost the same, however, 4-cross lacing is much more durable and reliable.
IMPORTANT
The conditions stated in the Mad4One Warranty (see section 7.) apply to the FlickFlock hub. Here is the link:
Please note that for the Mad4One ISIS Flick Flock hub the warranty applies ONLY with the hub mounted on 4-cross wheels.
The FlickFlock hub may be opened ONLY by people authorized in advance by our company after having been trained in the assembling and disassembling of the Flick Flock Hub.
Any action carried out by unauthorized persons will invalidate the warranty.
Cranks mounting
The FlickFlock hub uses a standard ISIS interface, and any standard ISIS crank can be mounted.
Since the switch drive rod [1] protrudes approx. 1 mm from the central axle, care and caution should be taken not to bend the drive rod.
Using a normal crank extractor, you should check whether you can reverse the position of its bottom that presses on the center axle.
DO NOT use a normal extractor without having turned its bottom - see photo 2).
If you can turn the bottom of the extractor and manage to insert the extractor completely into the crank you can use the extractor without any problems (see photo 3).
If it is not possible to turn its bottomt, we insert one or two M8 washers (outer diameter 16mm) into the crank hole before the extractor so that we do not put pressure on the switch drive rod.
Our tightening screws are standard ISIS M12 screws [2] to which we have drilled a hole to allow the switch drive rod to pass through [1].
As with standard screws, it is important to make sure that the No. 8 Allen wrench is fully inserted into the hex of the screw.
The switch drive rod should be moved to the side where we are not working to tighten the crank. Care should be taken to move the drive rod to the right side each time we work on a tightening screw, whether assembling or disassembling the crank.
Please note that: by disassembling the right crank, the switch drive rod will have to be moved into freewheel mode, which makes the disassembly of the crank a little more difficult. It is helpful to have a strong assistant to hold the cranks firmly in place during the dismounting process.
The ISIS standard requires a spacer on each side that can vary between 6 and 8 mm.
Choose an appropriate sized spacer to ensure complete tightening so that no gap is left between the crank and the bearing.
The crank should be greased before installation and a wrench at least 30 cm long should be used (if necessary an old seatpost tube or a similar tube will be very useful as an extension of the wrench).
The crank should be greased before installation and a wrench at least 30 cm long should be used (if necessary an old seatpost tube or a similar tube will be very useful as an extension of the wrench).
Always remember to check that cranks and pedals are properly tightened.
PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
The Switch botton
The switch drive button [3] is used to operate the switch while riding, using the heel to move the switch drive rod.
You can also use the FlickFlock hub without control buttons. In this case we use a 5 or 6 Allen wrench to move the switch drive rod. We will carry out this operation while standing still, getting off the unicycle.
To mount the switch button correctly make sure that the small internal tightening screw [4] is unscrewed and allows the switch button to be screwed in correctly.
The best position of the switch drive button [3] is achieved by positioning the switch drive rod [1] so that the switch botton is in the engaged position. In this position we screw the button in until it comes into contact with the small internal tightening screw [4] and, after having reached contact, we unscrew the switch button half a turn or a little more.
We move the switch drive rod so that the switch button sticks out of the crank and it's easy to hold it in place with a No. 19 wrench or pliers. While holding the switch button in place, tighten the small internal tightening screw until it is screwed in completely.
Now the switch button should be locked and should not unscrew.
Some considerations:
for space reasons, the small internal tightening screw is not large (M4) and its tightening power is not very high, so it is recommended to check frequently whether the button is fixed or can be unscrewed by hand. If the switch button is not well fixed, the risk of losing it is high and real.
It is possible to use a small drop of threadlocker to lock the switch button in place, but only a very low sticky product should be used. Be careful not to involve in this operation with the thread locker also the small internal clamping screw because the small Allen wrench (No. 2) that is used to tighten this small screw does not allow to apply great force and you run the risk of ruining the screw head and not being able to remove it any more.
Dismounting of the Cranks
Once you have removed the switch drive button and the small internal tightening screw, you must move the switch drive rod to the other side of the crank to be disassembled and act with an ISIS extractor using the following PRECAUTION:
As we have already described in the previous sections, the switch drive rod protrudes about 2 mm from the central axle, and therefore it is absolutely important to avoid that the extractor puts pressure on the switch drive rod. To avoid this, we provide two M8 washers with an outer diameter of 16mm to be placed between the central axle inside the crank and the extractor.
Once the washers are inserted and the extractor positioned act gently to remove the crank.
If the spacer washers are not inserted, it is very likely that the switch drive rod will be bent by the pressure of the extractor, in this case only authorized staff will be able and allowed to repair it.